Retail
Subscription
Advertise
  • ISSUES
    • 1987 to 1990
      • 1987
        • May 1987
        • June 1987
        • July 1987
        • August 1987
        • September 1987
        • October 1987
        • November 1987
        • December 1987
      • 1988
        • January 1988
        • February 1988
        • March 1988
        • April 1988
        • May 1988
        • June 1988
        • July 1988
        • August 1988
        • September 1988
        • October 1988
        • November 1988
        • December 1988
    • 2010 to 2019
      • 2010
        • January 2010
        • February 2010
        • March 2010
        • April 2010
        • May 2010
        • June 2010
        • July 2010
        • August 2010
        • September 2010
        • October 2010
        • November 2010
        • December 2010
      • 2011
        • January 2011
        • February 2011
        • March 2011
        • April 2011
        • May 2011
        • June 2011
        • July 2011
        • August 2011
        • September 2011
        • October 2011
        • November 2011
        • December 2011
      • 2012
        • January 2012
        • February 2012
        • March 2012
        • April 2012
        • May 2012
        • June 2012
        • July 2012
        • August 2012
        • September 2012
        • October 2012
        • November 2012
        • December 2012
      • 2013
        • January 2013
        • February 2013
        • March 2013
        • April 2013
        • May 2013
        • June 2013
        • July 2013
        • August 2013
        • September 2013
        • October 2013
        • November 2013
        • December 2013
      • 2014
        • January 2014
        • February 2014
        • March 2014
        • April 2014
        • May 2014
        • June 2014
        • July 2014
        • August 2014
        • September 2014
        • October 2014
        • November 2014
        • December 2014
      • 2015
        • January 2015
        • February 2015
        • March 2015
        • April 2015
        • May 2015
        • June 2015
        • July 2015
        • August 2015
        • September 2015
        • October 2015
        • November 2015
        • December 2015
      • 2016
        • January 2016
        • February 2016
        • March 2016
        • April 2016
        • May 2016
        • June 2016
        • July 2016
        • August 2016
        • September 2016
        • October 2016
        • November 2016
        • December 2016
      • 2017
        • January 2017
        • February 2017
        • March 2017
        • April 2017
        • May 2017
        • June 2017
        • July 2017
        • August 2017
        • September 2017
        • October 2017
        • November 2017
        • December 2017
      • 2018
        • January 2018
        • February 2018
        • March 2018
        • April 2018
        • May 2018
        • June 2018
        • July 2018
        • August 2018
        • November 2018
        • December 2018
      • 2019
        • January 2019
        • February 2019
        • March 2019
        • April 2019
        • May 2019
        • June 2019
        • July 2019
        • August 2019
        • September 2019
        • October 2019
        • November 2019
        • December 2019
    • 2020 to 2023
      • 2020
        • January 2020
        • February 2020
        • March 2020
        • September 2020
        • October 2020
        • November 2020
        • December 2020
      • 2021
        • January 2021
        • February 2021
        • March 2021
        • April 2021
        • May 2021
        • June 2021
        • July 2021
        • August 2021
        • September 2021
        • October 2021
        • November 2021
        • December 2021
      • 2022
        • January 2022
        • February 2022
        • March 2022
        • April 2022
        • May 2022
        • June 2022
        • July 2022
        • August 2022
        • September 2022
        • October 2022
        • November 2022
        • December 2022
      • 2023
        • January 2023
        • February 2023
        • March 2023
        • April 2023
        • May 2023
        • June 2023
        • July 2023
        • August 2023
  • FOR DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTION
  • ABOUT US
No Result
View All Result
No Result
View All Result

A Way of Life: Sleeping Pettah

in December 2016, Featured
0
Nattami carts neatly organised on Central Road

As dusk turns to night, the streets of Pettah take on a different form. Street lights glow brightly as the busy hive of activity slows down, you would think that Pettah is turning in for the night. Yet, amidst the deceiving silence, sounds of life echo as Pettah transforms into one of the most happening places after dark!

Words Udeshi Amarasinghe
Photographs Menaka Aravinda, Vishwa Tharmakulasingham and Anuradha Perera

Bath on!
Bath on!

The clock strikes midnight and we drive along Reclamation Street to explore Pettah. The atmosphere was one of joviality. In circles we drove along Barber Street, Quarry Road, Armour Street, Central Road and Jinthupitiya Street, covering the areas of Pettah, Kochchikade and Grandpass. It was a way of life that does not sway to the changing tides.

Along Central Road, we came across hundreds of carts that are hand-pushed by the Nattamis, men who transport goods from one place to another. Nattamis are found only in Pettah and they work all day long taking respite only during the night.

We journeyed along Jinthupitiya Street, three-wheelers were aligned perfectly on both sides of the road forming neat rows. The owners, who are also the drivers of these vehicles keep their three-wheelers in such designated areas and retire to their homes nearby. A single person will be assigned to keep an eye on the vehicles during the night. Everyone will take turns each night to perform this duty.

Along the narrow roads we went, experiencing Pettah by night. As we exited from Vivekananda Hill, our attention was drawn to the throbbing sounds of popular music coming from the vicinity of the Mohammed Mathoor playground. Groups of youngsters were enjoying the night dancing and singing.

Even during the early hours of dawn, there were people around, and of course young ones enjoying the night after a long day’s work. It was Saturday night after all!

Parked unimaginably close to each other on Jinthupitiya Street

Though the streets may seem empty, hints of life could be seen and heard at various points. Pettah is primarily a commercial district, however it is also somewhat residential with the homes of many of the shop owners, workers and taxi drivers in the vicinity.

Even during the early hours of dawn, there were people around, and of course young ones enjoying the night after a long day’s work. It was Saturday night after all!

The Kelae Pola was in full swing, with vegetables from all over the country being brought in.

As we approached Abdul Hameed Street, an atmosphere of a night bazaar came into our view. Bright lights illuminated the shops where spicy meals were being prepared for the all-nighters looking to comfort their hunger pangs. The street was somewhat crowded too as people hurried here and there.

Just a short distance away on Capital Hill once again, almost 200 three-wheelers were parked on both sides of the road creating an endless line of colour glowing in the night light. We continued our drive passing Aluth Kade, Kochchikade and headed towards Pettah bus stand.

The Kelae Pola (කැලෑපොළ) was in full swing, with vegetables from all over being brought in to sell. Operating from ten in the night to ten in the morning, many of the vegetables, fruits and greens have been grown by the sellers themselves. Not only were there individuals but also wholesalers and shopkeepers buying their stock. The reason as to why this market is called the Kelae Pola is that many of the unusual types of produce and green are available among the more common varieties. Stacks of banana and king coconut were neatly placed though with the rains there was less than usual.

As we left Pettah still in the darkness of dawn glistening with a star like glow, we pondered on a way of life that is unique to the inhabitants of the area. Much happens when Pettah is sleeping…

Explore Sri Lanka July 2023

Recent Posts

  • Victory is War and Peace?
  • President Ranil Wickremesinghe visits Arugambay 
  • Casa Serena: Where Art Meets a Cause
  • An Unorthodox Melodrama 
  • Mer.chant Hotel Galle Fort

Recent Comments

No comments to show.
exlpore-sri-lanka-logo

  • Terms & Conditions
  • Privacy Policy

© 2023 BT Options. All Rights Reserved.

No Result
View All Result
  • ISSUES
    • 1987 to 1990
      • 1987
      • 1988
    • 2010 to 2019
      • 2010
      • 2011
      • 2012
      • 2013
      • 2014
      • 2015
      • 2016
      • 2017
      • 2018
      • 2019
    • 2020 to 2023
      • 2020
      • 2021
      • 2022
      • 2023
  • FOR DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTION
  • ABOUT US

© 2023 BT Options. All Rights Reserved.